THE GOLDEN RULES OF HANDLING AFRO-TEXTURED HAIR
CURLY • COILY • KINKY
How to Handle Curly, Coily & Kinky Hair With Less Stress, Less Force & Better Technique
Afro-textured hair can be strong, but it can also be vulnerable to dryness, friction, excessive tension and rough handling.
You don’t need to fight the hair.
Learn to work with it.
1. DON’T BRUSH IT DRY
Dry, tangled hair + aggressive brushing = unnecessary friction and breakage.
If the hair is dry, stop and add moisture.
WHEN IN DOUBT, ADD WATER.
Water can help soften the hair, improve manageability and make detangling easier.
Add conditioner when you need more slip.
Water + conditioner will often save the day.
2. DETANGLE WITH PATIENCE
☐ Work in sections
☐ Start at the ends
☐ Work your way towards the roots
☐ Use your fingers first when needed
☐ Use a wide-tooth comb
☐ Never force a comb through a knot
☐ Add water or conditioner if the hair becomes difficult to manage
NEVER SMALL-COMB YOUR WAY THROUGH A TANGLE.
A small, fine-tooth comb can create unnecessary pulling and friction, especially when the hair is tightly coiled or tangled.
3. ALWAYS WORK IN SECTIONS
Sections make everything easier.
Whether you’re:
- Detangling
- Washing
- Blow-drying
- Stretching
- Braiding
- Applying products
- Preparing hair for a style
Section it.
Smaller, manageable sections give you more control and help reduce unnecessary pulling and repeated manipulation.
4. BLOW-DRYING? USE THE TENSION METHOD
If you’re blow-drying curly, coily or kinky hair to stretch it:
☐ Work in sections
☐ Detangle first
☐ Use appropriate heat protection
☐ Keep the tension controlled
☐ Don’t pull excessively
☐ Keep the dryer moving
☐ Avoid unnecessary high heat
The goal isn’t to force the hair straight.
The goal is to stretch and smooth it enough for the next step.
5. WANT THE CURLS TO COME BACK?
ADD WATER.
If the hair has been stretched and you want to encourage the natural curl or coil pattern to return, water can help the fibre absorb moisture and begin returning towards its hydrated shape.
Want to revert the curls? Start with water.
6. WANT TO SOFTEN THE HAIR?
ADD WATER.
Then, when appropriate, add conditioner or another product designed to provide slip and improve manageability.
Don’t immediately reach for more force.
Try moisture first.
7. WANT BRAIDS TO LOOK SMOOTHER?
PREPARE THE HAIR.
For many styles, gently stretching the hair first can make sectioning, parting and braiding easier.
If blow-drying:
SECTION → DETANGLE → PROTECT → TENSION → STRETCH
Don’t try to manage the entire head at once.
8. WATCH YOUR TENSION
Hair shouldn’t have to hurt to look good.
Be careful with:
☐ Excessive pulling
☐ Tight sections
☐ Repeated tension in the same area
☐ Tight edges
☐ Heavy extensions
☐ Braiding too tightly around the hairline
A neat style should not require unnecessary force.
9. BREATHE.
This one matters.
THE MORE YOU RUSH, THE WORSE IT CAN BECOME.
When hair is tangled, matted, dry or difficult:
STOP.
BREATHE.
ADD WATER.
ADD CONDITIONER.
SECTION IT.
START AGAIN.
Don’t turn frustration into force.
Patience is a hair-handling skill.
THE SIMPLE FORMULA
DRY + TANGLED?
ADD WATER.
NEED MORE SLIP?
ADD CONDITIONER.
DIFFICULT TO DETANGLE?
SECTION IT.
BLOW-DRYING?
SECTION + TENSION METHOD.
WANT TO STRETCH?
BLOW-DRY IN SECTIONS.
WANT TO REVERT?
ADD WATER.
WANT TO BRAID MORE SMOOTHLY?
PREP + STRETCH + SECTION.
FEEL LIKE YOU’RE FIGHTING THE HAIR?
STOP. BREATHE. SLOW DOWN.
WORK WITH THE HAIR — NOT AGAINST IT.
The better you understand Afro-textured hair, the less you need to rely on force.
